Railway Route Highlight: The Grandeur of an Alpine Adventure from Zurich to Graz

 

This thrilling nine-hour voyage winds its way through the Swiss and Austrian Alps, ascending to heights surpassing 1,000 meters above sea level while traversing the Rhine-Danube watershed.

Every prominent train terminal requires a guardian figure. Zurich boasts one of the most distinctive ones. An exuberant sculpture depicting a gracefully contoured woman adorned in a swimsuit and golden wings gracefully looms above the central hall at the city's Hauptbahnhof. "L'ange protecteur," crafted by French artist Niki de Saint Phalle, captivates attention akin to the bustling departure schedules. With direct train connections to various destinations spanning 10 countries, this station is a realm of abundant possibilities. Anywhere from Amsterdam to Zagreb! Berlin, Bratislava, or Bologna? Or perhaps Paris or Prague?

For aficionados of breathtaking landscapes, the standout departure of the day, in my view, is the 08.40 train bound for Graz. This EuroCity train boasts an Austrian dining car and one of the rare panoramic carriages owned by the Swiss operator SBB. Only one other international departure from Zurich offers such an expansive view: the 10.59 EC8 train heading to Hamburg. While there are certainly impressive scenic stretches on that route, notably the hour-long traverse through the Rhine Gorge from Mainz to Koblenz, it pales in comparison to the EC163 journey to Graz. With a journey spanning 325 miles (522km) to Austria's second-largest city, this route presents over nine hours of top-tier Alpine vistas, with only a few tunnels interrupting the spectacular scenery.

The EuroCity train heading towards Graz is known as the Transalpin. This name originally referred to the first train departing from Zurich to Vienna in the past. However, starting from late 2013, it has been used for the daytime EuroCity service connecting Zurich to Graz. Remarkably, the scheduling of the Transalpin has remained largely unchanged over the past decade.

Precisely at 08:40, our journey commences from Zurich, and we swiftly traverse the southern edge of the Zürichsee, treating passengers to picturesque lakeside vistas. This region was once likened to "the Lancashire of Switzerland" by Thomas Cook, although the mills that once dotted the landscape have long vanished. Upon reaching Sargans, the train takes a sharp northern turn, and just an hour into the expedition, we arrive at the station stop in Buchs. Crossing the robust River Rhine, we venture into the sovereign territory of Liechtenstein.

A surge of gratitude unexpectedly engulfs me towards the residents of Liechtenstein who, in a referendum held three years ago, made the choice for trains to maintain a leisurely pace as they traverse their small principality. Kudos to them! They rejected a proposition aimed at enhancing the single-track railway along the route taken by the Transalpin through Liechtenstein.

And so, we embark on a gentle journey spanning six miles across Liechtenstein's territory, crossing into Austria where we encircle the hilltop castle of Feldkirch before arriving at the town's central station. For James Joyce, departing Austria during World War I, Feldkirch marked his final stop within Habsburg territory. He harbored concerns that Austrian authorities might confiscate his manuscripts. Returning to Feldkirch during peacetime, he recollected, "Over there, on those tracks, the fate of Ulysses was decided in 1915." The German translation of these words adorns a frieze in the booking hall of Feldkirch station.

The journey from Feldkirch to Innsbruck, a span of two hours, is truly splendid. Following the Arlberg railway across the prominent watershed that divides waters flowing west to the North Sea via the Rhine from those streaming east via the Inn and the Danube, ultimately reaching the Black Sea, is a sight to behold. A brief ten-minute passage through darkness in the Arlberg tunnel punctuates a 25-mile stretch where the railway consistently maintains an elevation of over 1,000 meters above sea level.

The entirety of the Arlberg railway is a marvel, particularly when observed from the comfort of the Swiss panorama carriage (conveniently situated adjacent to the dining car, where a treat of apple strudel awaits). Crossing such rugged terrain seems deceptively effortless in a contemporary train. However, this was not always the case. My 1840 John Murray guidebook recounts how early travelers met their demise in the snow-covered mountains, their frozen remains left along the path as sustenance for scavenging crows.

Starting from St. Anton, the journey becomes a downhill trajectory all the way, passing through Landeck and Innsbruck, until we reach Wörgl. Here, we bid farewell to the Inn Valley and ascend towards the eastern hills, eventually arriving at Zell am See.

Descending through the Salzach valley, we make our way to Bischofshofen, leaving the valley behind as we traverse a gentle pass, entering the realm of the River Enns valley. The demanding inclines of the Arlberg are now distant memories, replaced by the serene allure of a single-track railway weaving through the countryside of Austria. A steady drizzle commences as we reach Selzthal, prompting a 10-minute stop. Thereafter, a mere 90-minute journey remains until we reach Graz, where we arrive punctually at 18.14.

This voyage presents a relatively extensive traverse through the Alps, stretching from the western to the eastern regions. While the widely acclaimed Alpine railway routes predominantly follow a north-to-south orientation—such as the Simplon, Gotthard, Bernina, and Brenner railways—these journeys, although remarkable, encompass only a couple of hours' worth of Alpine terrain. What sets the Transalpin journey apart is its provision of a full day of travel, during which the entire route unfolds as a celebration of Alpine landscapes. This route encapsulates various quintessential elements of the Alps, ranging from the raw grandeur of the Arlberg to the serene charm of Upper Styria.

Passengers holding first-class rail tickets or passes have the privilege of experiencing the complete journey from the Swiss panorama carriage. However, it's worth noting that on scorching summer days, the intense sunlight and the extensive glass surfaces might not be ideal for certain travelers.

It's intriguing how these uniquely distinctive carriages extend their reach far beyond their native land. Departing from Graz, there's now a Swiss panorama carriage incorporated into the daily EuroCity train journey to Przemyśl, located in the remote southeastern corner of Poland, near the border with Ukraine. While the idea tempts me, having spent over nine hours on a train from Zurich, I find myself craving a day or two in one place before embarking further eastward. And indeed, Graz offers a compelling reason to linger for a night or two, boasting an elegance and flair that can rival Vienna.

Graz proves itself with more than just its aesthetics; it provides a well-rounded experience with its excellent selection of onward international rail connections. Beyond the direct train route to Przemyśl, Graz hosts direct daytime services to prominent destinations such as Berlin, Budapest, Zagreb, and Prague.